Wednesday, 15 May 2013

A surprising connection between modern astronomy and ancient culture in Chile...



La Silla is in the southern part of the Atacama - 600km north of Santiago and (don't we know it) at an altitude of 2400m! It is the home of ESO's original observing site. Today we visit the “grandfather of La Silla” the 3.6m telescope. A behemoth of an instrument standing proudly in its dome, the thing that gets me is the emptiness of the facility, here there are no humans, its completely remotely operated from afar, the real secret of his however is what lies beneath, the High Accuracy Radial velocity PlanetSearcher (HARPS). This telescope looks for other worlds out there in the cosmos…WOW! And it finds them too. I recall the night before, when Mattaeus tells me about his research into looking for new planets. Extrasolar planets were once thought to be very rare but now we believe most stars have planets around them formed from the accretion disc of dust and gas that gives birth to new stars.

HARPS
http://www.eso.org/sci/facilities/lasilla/instruments/harps.html
NTT next: the New Technology Telescope. This was the instrument that Veronica, the night previously was using to observe the pulsating star in Omega Centauri. NTT was a forerunner for the VLT: at 3.4 m in aperture it is so beautiful, mounted Alt-Az. The whole observatory turns with the telescope and can access all of the sky, attached to it is SOFI Son Of Issac (you can google that)! 



The NTT
We filmed MORE and took MORE pictures: it was stunning. See for yourself - what a beautiful, scuptural instrumet the NTT is! And then I saw a Condor! I exclaimed, “WHAT is that?!” - this bird was enormous, Hernan tells me it has a 3m wingspan! It just floated, almost suspended in mid-air, effortlessly gliding through the sky.

I thought that this was it - the day done, time to set off on our epic 900 km journey north to the centre of the universe (to me): Paranal Very Large Telescope (VLT). I was wrong, Hernan had been telling me all day about some petroglyphs that had been located here, an ancient reminder of civilisations past. He tells me it will take 1 hour to set off and see this relic of Chile, so I agree and off we go. I ride with him in his jeep across a wild track with rocks and dust strewn all around. The excitement builds: you see, Hernan is a real gentleman and an incredible host for me, talking passionately about what we are about to see, talking about the El Moya, an ancient civilisation that lived in the Andes before their extinction.

The Lama Nebula over La Silla - WOW!
(I didn't take this one sadly, it's one of ESO's images)
Amazing to think the El Moya saw it too...
Hernan took me to a sacred and ancient place, where scattered around the hillsides are petroglyphs. On them the ancient carvings from this now extinct race of people, showing an intimate relationship between them and the sky. Hernan showed me how they interpreted the carvings as representative of how they saw the sky and what it represented. I mentioned in a previous post the nebulous constellation the “Lama” and now Hernan told me about the stories... a sacred animal to the El Moya, they saw the Lama in the sky as an area we now know to be absorption, dust and gas in the milky way. To the El Moya this was a sign that beyond the earth was another realm and in it was the lama. 

To see some of what I saw, watch this INCREDIBLE timelapse by Stephane Guisard (and try not to cry... the YouTube version on the left isn't as high resolution as the link). They inscribed into the rocks the small and the large magellanic clouds, but they were separated from the rest of the carvings, as if they knew the objects were farther away in the sky. I had a sensed of real connection between the modern science and the El Moya, they were the original astronomers in Chile...

Tuesday, 14 May 2013

From CTIO, across the desert, to La Silla...




I awake this morning to the incredible realisation that I am in the residences at CTIO… my eyes ping open and I start to recall the night before. As I don't have enough words to describe what I saw...

Gazing into the centre of our home galaxy, the Milky Way
 My memories of the night feel like a daze, so much to take in and so much to remember to tell. Also there is the prospect of what lies ahead…

We stroll in for breakfast only to find we have missed it and after a leak in the toilet was quickly dealt with by Tito, we were on our way. I pass in to see the technicians and thank them for their help. 

Next on the list is La Silla on the edge of the Atacama Desert - a very special place. 

Before we can make the 4 hour drive north to La Silla, we have to get online, load up images, update twitter and regain contact with the outside world so we can manage the technical demands of our trip. We arrive at our regular internet cafĂ© and order food... after filling up, posting tweets, uploading pictures... we are off! Adam sits in the back of the camper van planning the next bit of filming and Glenn plays with cameras as we start the journey north. What a journey it is! Have you ever driven in South America? I hadn’t... I did not expect this. 40ft trucks playing 'chicken' with each other as they tear through the Chilean countryside, desolate and wild, with honking horns and gesticulating terrified gringos: not a place for the faint-hearted.

First sight of La Silla!
As we pass out of the green areas around La Serena, we are greeted by the desert, 'open' is not a word sufficient to describe what we saw... all trace of humanity appeared eradicated, only sand and rocks and bad roads. We take in the silence and vastness, experiencing the the edge of the abyss. 

And in the distance I can see white silver shiny buildings that look familiar... La Silla is beckoning. Off we go on the track with bumps and dust and anticipation. As we climb the hill to La Silla we experience a sunset... a sight to behold and never forget, I never will... the sunset casting hues of pink and blue, I had no idea that even a sunset could be so beautiful. It was breathtaking - at this altitude of 2,400m we feel as if we are in space. 

The New Technology Telescope at La Silla
http://www.eso.org/sci/facilities/lasilla/telescopes/ntt.html


Reaching the summit at La Silla we are greeted by our host Hernando, a lawyer writer who holds tours in between his science writing. Hernando is a true gentleman and self-confessed lover of all things astronomical, and is on a mission to tell me about the history of astronomy in Chile. He tells me about the “Lama” constellation, not made from stars but instead dark nebulae, that the ancient peoples saw in the sky. I ask for more and Hernando duly obliges, a mine of information on ancient and contemporary folklore.

Time for SCIENCE however! I enter the control room to loud music and the smell of research… young scientists are abound in here and they are using some very sophisticated instruments. I'm absorbed as we talk and I distract the team by quizzing them for information as they search the Universe for new data. A superb insight to the working life of astronomers. I am invited back throughout the night, but I prefer standing under the blanket of stars... taking it all in and realising: this is the best sky I have ever seen in my life. So I set up my camera and take astrophotographs until 7:30am! Its late... I'm tired and am now in my room in the hotel, which is covered and adorned in astronomical pictures. 

From my south facing room I open the curtains after turning off the lights and I can see Eta carinae in the inky black sky, a perfect cue for sleep before tomorrow's journey back into the desert... Heading for the VLT Paranal. 

A couple of nights out of contact...Good night and goodbye for a couple of days zzzzzz…

La Serena and the Cerro Tololo Inter-American Observatory!



Our first day begins with an early rise to a fabulous Chilean sunrise, breakfast on the plateau and the phone rings...

The astro-wagon
... its Dr David Murphy from the Department of Astronomy and Astrophysics at the Universidad Catolica de Chile in Santiago - he is the fixer and creator of all things Kielder Observatory in Chile. I finish feeding my desert fox friend and then it's down to business: David wants us in La Serena at a conference.

What an honour - the conference marks the 50th anniversary of Cerro Tololo Inter-American Observatory (CTIO). From CTIO a team of cosmologists detected a sign that the universe was accelerating at extreme distances. Wow, they even won the Nobel Prize! And they are going to be there... I'm off as fast as I can, laughing as I watch Glenn Perry from In House Films, our camera man in pyjamas, stumble to the van to guide me to my next destination. It's all hands to the pump as we race off in the warm Chilean sun, in search of scientists with stories.

We arrive in La Serena at a technical college called INACAP. There there are young Chilean people enjoying the sun but we have work to do! In I go and am met by Leonor Opazo, Head of the NOAO-S Education & Outreach Program. She has contributed greatly in helping me organise my itinerary and help me gain access to some of the world's best sites of astronomy research (with the ever present help of Dr David Murphy). I hardly know what to expect and am quite nervous - but out comes Nicole van der Bliek, the Director of CTIO, who is very friendly as she tells me about the history of CTIO, showing me even the old instrumentation she is careful not to throw away as she loves the history of this incredible facility. Rightly so she is protective – what a history!

Nicole then introduces me to some eminent scientists who have been involved in the Chilean astronomy story. Firstly I meet Dr Malcolm Smith, a former director of CTIO and a dyed-in-the-wool astronomer: his passion for astronomy oozes from him! He tells me about plans for light pollution control and that very soon Chile hopes to have 70% of the world's research telescopes. Chile is perfect for astronomy because it's so high up and the humidity is so low (clear nights every night, just like at Kielder...!).

Hardly a pause for breath to reflect on the importance of this - before I meet Dr Alastair Walker, an instrument scientist who helped build the Dark Energy Camera (DECam). DECam, what an important instrument - it contributed to the shared discovery of the accelerating universe! This is AWESOME I can't stop smiling inappropriately (I think they will think I am mad...). Alastair also tells me about new plans and technology designed to detecting more and more objects lurking in our universe.

Then my next interviewee comes along: Dr R. Chris Smith, what a guy, I love him, so energetic and friendly. We talk for 30 minutes about the universe and how his team conducted (along with another US team) the High–z Supernova Search which also contributed to the shared discovery of the accelerating universe and for which they won the Nobel Prize.

What a day, but it's not over... phew no time to breathe, its back to the astro-wagon and off to see the Cerro Tololo Inter-American Observatory in the flesh... better still we are staying there overnight! EVEN better still: I'll be in the control room with  Dr Scott Sheppard from the Department of Terrestrial Magnetism at the Carnegie Institution! Can this get any better? YES, OF COURSE!

CTIO Domes 
We arrive at the CTIO Observatories just as the sun is going down, what a sight... a blood-red sunset over the Chilean hills and mountains. Adam (Director of Filming) asks us to stop so we roll out and take in the view. It's stunning, all the way up to my north where the 4m Blanco Telescope sits majestically, rightly proud of its discoveries!

I am greeted by Tito the CTIO cab driver, fed, watered and led to our room. It's beautiful! The CTIO staff make us all feel so welcome with a lovely room, a SHOWER AT LAST! and an atmosphere promising a special night of astronomy. I am so excited I eat my meal in 0.5 seconds and race up the hill, but wait! 

Something is wrong, I can't breathe, I feel unfit, why? Hmmm; 7,000 ft altitude maybe, that's it! WOW it hits me hard, so I slow down and take in the sight, take a few pictures then enter the control room.

The control room of the Blanco Telescope is like the deck of the Enterprise, beautiful in its promise of technical and scientific excellence. I meet Scott, a very approachable mid-west American, and he tells me of his research using DECam's very wide field to study near earth objects.

Dr Scott and I at CTIO
DECam's wide field has 3 degrees of the sky covered by the detector (in case you're not sure what 3 degrees means, it means he can scan an area in the sky as wide as 6 full moons, so). He shows me a 'dot' on a screen and tells me that this 'dot' was detected in March 2013 by his team. It's pretty close, Universe-wise – from Earth only you'd have to travel the distance to the Sun 84 times to get there! And it's hardly a 'dot' - maybe as much as 1000km wide!!! Thankfully, although close in universe terms, it's far away enough from Earth.

The Galactic Centre viewed from the Atacama Desert: G Fildes
Taken with Canon 60DA and Astrotrac
We talk astronomy all night and I keep dipping out to check my astrophotography camera and then back in to see how the 4m Blanco Telescope and DECam are fairing. I take this picture of the centre of our own Galaxy. Then it hits me... I'm in the control room which contributed to the discovery of the accelerating universe! Well that's Chilean astronomy - at the forefront of astronomical research.

As I grow sleepy I am left with the feeling that the people who I have met are the very best and today they have invited me into a family of discovery. Tomorrow I'm off to La Silla in the Atacama Desert to see the European Southern Observatory (ESO) the New Technology Telescope (NTT) - join me later to find out how it goes! All in one day, I can hardly believe it!

Adios!